Executive Summary:
This public notice issued by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) amends the export policy for "Finished Leather all kinds" under the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20. It specifies which items constitute "Finished Leather" for export purposes and outlines the manufacturing norms and conditions for their export without a license. The changes reflect advancements in tanning technology and new types of finished leather. This notice is effective as of September 4, 2020.
Key Points / Main Content:
* **Definition of Finished Leather:**
* Specifies items that qualify as "Finished Leather" under Serial No: 176, Chapter 41, Schedule 2 Export Policy of the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20.
* **Export Conditions:**
* Items listed in column 2 of the table can be exported without a license.
* Exports are subject to the manufacturing norms and conditions specified in column 3 of the table for each item.
* **Manufacturing Norms & Conditions (Examples):**
* **Leathers with finishing coat:**
* Tanning (All substrates), Dyeing (optional), Fatliquoring, Finishing coat (Bovine hides/sides calf skins including splits, Goat and Sheep skins)
* **Suede Leathers:**
* Tanning (All substrates including splits), Dyeing (light/pastel/medium/dark shades), Buffing to produce suede nap, Shavings/snuffing
* **Nubuck Leathers:**
* Tanning (All substrates including butts and bends), Dyeing, Fatliquoring, Buffing on the grain to produce nap
* **Testing for Dye Presence:**
* In cases of doubt, the presence of dye must be ascertained through chromatographic or spectrophotometric techniques.
* **New Leather Types:**
* Any new type of finished leather not covered will be permitted for export, subject to testing and certification by the Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI).
* **Manufacturing Definitions:**
* Provides definitions for manufacturing operations like tanning, dyeing, fatliquoring, finishing coat, buffing, shaving, snuffing and oiling.
* **Wax Coat Examination:**
* Specifies microscopic examination procedures for wax coat.
* **Burnishable and Pull-Up Effects:**
* Defines the required minimum CIE L value for burnishable and pull-up effects on leather.
* **Other Leather Types:**
* Includes norms for Chamois Leathers, Shrunken Grain/Washed Leathers, Wax/Oil coated leathers, 3D Effect, Embossed Leathers, Scaling, and Perforated Leathers.
Impact Analysis:
* **Exporters of Finished Leather:**
* *Impact:* Need to ensure that their products meet the specified manufacturing norms and conditions to be eligible for export without a license. New leathers require CLRI certification.
* *Action Required:* Review manufacturing processes, ensure compliance with norms, and obtain necessary certifications for new leather types.
* **Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI):**
* *Impact:* Responsible for testing and certifying new types of finished leather for export eligibility.
* *Action Required:* Establish procedures for testing and certification of new leather types.
* **Customs Authorities:**
* *Impact:* Responsible for enforcing the export policy and ensuring that exported leather products comply with the specified norms.
* *Action Required:* Update procedures to reflect the new norms and conditions for finished leather exports.
Key Entities Referenced
Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20: A policy document governing foreign trade, which is referenced throughout the notification.
Foreign Trade Development and Regulation Act, 1992: Indian legislation that provides the legal framework for foreign trade regulation and development. Section 5 of this act is mentioned.
Directorate General of Foreign Trade: The organization, headed by the Director General, responsible for implementing and enforcing foreign trade policy in India.
New Delhi: Location of publication of the policy document, New Delhi, Delhi
Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI): An institute that is responsible for testing and certifying new types of finished leather for export.
SATRA: An organization that develops fastness testers used to test the burnishable effect on leather.
Amit Yadav: Director General of Foreign Trade, and Ex-officio Additional Secretary
Finished Leather: The main subject of the notification, which is defining and regulating the export of finished leather of all kinds.
रजिस्ट्री स.ं डी.एल.- 33004/99 REGD. No. D. L.-33004/99
सी.जी.-डी.एल.-अ.-04092020-221562
xxxGIDHxxx
CG-DL-E-04092020-221562
xxxGIDExxx
असाधारण
EXTRAORDINARY
भाग I—खण्ड 1
PART I—Section 1
प्राजधकार स ेप्रकाजित
PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY
स.ं 230] नई दिल्ली, िुक्रवार, जसतम्ब र 4, 2020/भाद्र 13, 1942
No. 230] NEW DELHI, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 2020/BHADRA 13, 1942
¼fons'k O;kikj egkfuns'kky;½
ubZ fnYyh] 4 flrEcj] 2020
—fons”k O;kikj
uhfr 2015&20 ds iSjk 2-04 ds lkFk ifBr fons”k O;kikj ¼fodkl ,oa fofu;eu½ vf/kfu;e] 1992 ¼1992
dh la- 22½ dh /kkjk 5 }kjk iznÙk “kfDr;ks a dk iz;ksx djrs gq,] egkfuns”kd fons”k O;kikj ,rn~}kjk fons”k
O;kikj uhfr 2015&20 dh vuqlwph&2 ¼fu;krZ uhfr½ ds v/;k; 41 dh Øe la- 176 eas nh xbZ izfof’V
ÞlHkh izdkj dk rS;kj peM+kß ds iz;kstu grs q ;g fofufnZ’V djrs gSa fd uhps nh xbZ rkfydk ds dkWye 2
eas mfYyf[kr ens a ^rS;kj peM+k* ds rgr vk,xa h vkSj bUgas fcuk ykblsal ds fu;krZ fd;k tk ldrk g S
fdUrq ;g uhps nh xbZ rkfydk ds dkWye 3 es a izR;sd en ds lkeus mfYyf[kr “krks± ds v/khu gkxs k%
4103 GI/2020 (1)2 THE GAZETTE OF INDIA : EXTRAORDINARY [PART I—SEC. 1]
I fQfuf”kxa dkVs lfgr peM+k ¼d½ VSfuax
¼lHkh lCLVªVs ~l cdjh vkSj HkMs + ¼[k½ MkbZax ¼oSdfYid½
dh [kkys a vkSj xktS krh; ¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
[kkykas@lkbM~l cNM+ s dh ¼?k½ fQfuf”kxa dkVs
peM+h fLiyV~l lfgr
II LoMs peM+k ¼fLiyV~l lfgr ¼d½ VSfuax
lHkh lCLVªVs ~l½ ¼[k½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ LoMs uSi fufeZr djus ds fy, cfQax
¼M-½ cdjh vkjS HkMs dh peM+h ds ekeys esa cSdckus ds fdlh
Hkh rjQ 2 bUp ij xszu dh “kfsoxa @LufQaZx vkSj xkStkrh;
[kkykas@lkbM~l vkSj cNM+s dh peM+h ds ekeys esa lEiw.kZ
xzsu lkbM ij
III U;wcd peM+k ¼cV~l vkSj cUS M~l ¼d½ VSfuax
lfgr lHkh lCLVªsV~l½ ¼[k½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ jkbfVax izHkko lfgr tSi fufeZr djus ds fy, xzsu ij
cfQax
¼;k½ xzsu ij cfQax vkSj cDS l U;wcd peM+ s ds ekeys eas rsy
dh ekStwnxh ¼;k½ xszu cfQax vkSj oSDlh U;wcd peM+s ds
ekeys esa oSDl dh mifLFkr oSDl dh ekStwnxhA
IV xkStkrh; [kkys@a lkbM~l xkStkrh; ykbfuax peMs grs q eksVkbZ 1-00 feeh rd vkSj
vk/kkfjr ykbfuax peM+k] cdjh cdjh ,oa HkMs + ds ykbfuax peMs+ grs q ekVs kbZ 0-8 fefe rd
vkSj HkMs vk/kkfjr ykbfuax ¼d½ VSfuax
peM+k ¼[k½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
V Xyfoxa peM+k ¼lHkh lCLVªsVl½ eksVkbZ 1-0 fefe ds cjkcj ;k de gksA oSDl dkVs ds ekeys
eas ju de ls de 15% gkAs ;fn oSDl dksV ekStnw ugha gS
rk s ju 25% ls de ugha gksxkA
¼d½ VSfuax
¼[k½ MkbZax ¼oSdfYid½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ oSDl dksV ¼odS fYid½
VI cfuZ”kCs y peM+k ¼cV~l vkSj ¼d½ VSfuax
cSUMl+ lfgr lHkh lCLVªsV~l½ ¼[k½[भाग I—खण् ड 1] भारत का रािपत्र : असाधारण 3
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ oSDldksV
¼M-½ jfcax ij cfuZ”kscy izHkko ¼fjQySDVsUl LiDs VªkQs kVs kes hVj
ij ukis x, vuqlkj lkrjk QkLVusl VsLVj ;k fdlh vU;
QkLVusl VsLVj ij 10 Mªk; jfcxa ij U;wure lhvkbZbZ
∆,y ewY;&3-0½
VII iqy vi peM+k&oSDl@vkW;y ¼d½ VSfuax
¼cV~l ,oa cSaM~l lfgr ¼[k½
lCLVªVs ~l½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ oSDl dksV ¼;k½ vkW;y dksV
¼M-½ iqy vi izHkko ¼fjQySDVsUl LiDs VªkQs kVs hehVj ij ukis
x, vuqlkj U;wure lhvkbbZ Z ∆,y ewY; +3-0
VIII lksy ySnj gkjuSl vkSj csfYVax 3-0 fefe ;k blls vf/kd dh eksVkbZ lfgr gSoh lCLVkUl
ySnlZ lfgr gSoh ySnlZ ¼cV~l vkSj U;wure 0-9 xzke@lh-lh- viSjUs V MfUs lVh lfgr
,o a cSaM~l lfgr xktS krh; i”kq ¼d½ VSfuax
[kky@ lkbM~l½ ¼[k½ vk;fyax@LVfQax
¼x½ jksfyax@IySfVax
IX peM+s ij cky@Åu ¼[kjxk”s k ¼d½ VSfuax
dh [kky lfgr lHkh lCLVªsV~l½ ¼[k½ MkbZax ¼oSdfYid½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ Åu@cky dkafscxa
X ysfeusfVM peM+k ¼fLiYV~l ¼d½ VSfuax
lfgr lHkh lcLVªsVl½ ¼[k½ MkbZax ¼oSdfYid½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½
XI lkaHkj dk peM+k ¼lHkh ¼d½ ,YMhgkbM vkSj vk;y dEchus”ku VSfuax
lcLVªVs ~l½ ¼[k½ LoSM uSi cukus ds fy, cfQxa
¼x½ xzsu dh i.w kZ “kfsoxa @LufQax
XII fldqMk gqvk xszu@/kqyk gqvk ¼d½ VSfuax
peM+k ¼lHkh lCLVªsV~~l½ ¼[k½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½
xzsu iSVuZ@xzsu dh cukoV eas ifjorZu fn[kk;k tkuk pkfg,A
XIII ekse@rsy ysfir peM+k ¼d½ VSfuax
¼[k½
¼x½ QSVfydkfsjax
¼?k½ oSDl dksV ¼;k½ vkW;y dksV4 THE GAZETTE OF INDIA : EXTRAORDINARY [PART I—SEC. 1]
XIV ¼d½
¼[k½
¼x½
¼?k½
mijksDr Jsf.k;kas ds rgr “kkfey u fd, x, fdlh u, idz kj ds rS;kj peMs+ dk dsUnzh; peM+k
vuqla/kku lLa Fkku ¼lh ,y vkj vkbZ½ }kjk tkap vkSj izek.ku ds v/khu fu;kZr vuqer gkxs kA
fdlh vuqØe eas ,d ;k ,d ls vf/kd VSfuax ,tsVa ds fy, VSfuax] ;Fkk [kfut VSfuax vkSj
ofstVscy VSfuax vkSj@;k flUVku VSfuax vkSj@;k jsft+u VSfuax vkSj@;k ,YMhgkbM VSfuax] vkW;y VSfuax
;k dkbs Z ubZ izdkj dh VSfuaxA
jax iznku djus ds fy, peM+s dk s MkbZ@Mkbtkas ds ?kkys ds lkFk peM+ s ij ysi djukA lna sg dh
fLFkfr es a mi;qDr lksYoasV feJ.k dk iz;kxs djrs gq, vkSj iryh ijr ØksekVksxzkQh ¼Vh,ylh½ dk iz;kxs
djrs gq, peM+ s l s MkbZ dks vyx djrs gq, MkbZ dh ekStnw xh dk irk yxk;k tkuk pkfg,A
cwVsuky] ,flfVd ,flM vkSj ty feJ.k ls vyx dh xbZ dkcZfud lrg ftls vyx fd, tkus okys
Qusy dk iz;ksx djds 4% 1% 5 ds vuqikr es a fy;k x;k gS] Vh,ylh fo”ys’k.k ds fy, bY;wfVax lkYoasV ds
:Ik eas fy;k x;k gSA MkbZDykjs kes Fs ku vkSj feFksuky ¼1 % 1½ feJ.k ds iz;kxs }kjk peM+s ls MkbZ fudkyh
tkrh gSA peM+ s ds dVs gq, VqdM+ s dqN feuVks a ds fy, lkyoVas feJ.k ds lkFk okVj CkkFk eas xeZ fd, tkrs
gSaA fudkyh xbZ MkbZ Vh,ylh iis j ij LikWV dh rjg j[kh tkrh gS vkjS bY;wfVax lkyoasV ij iV~Vh bl
rjg j[kh tkrh gS fd Mkb Z LikV lkYoasV lrg ds Åij jgrk gSA MkbZ dh ekStwnxh dkQh nwjh rd bldh
xfr }kjk vkjS Vh,ylh isij ij MkbZ doZ vFkok f”k[kj ds cuus ls lqfuf”pr dh tkrh gSA
mi;qDr lkYoasV feJ.k }kjk MkbZ dk fu’d’kZ.k djus grs q peM+ s ds Kkr uewus fy, tkrs gSA fu’df’krZ ?kkys
dk s Nkuk tkrk gS vkjS rc bldh 2 fe-fy- ek=k dks D;qosV es a fy;k tkrk g S vkSj ;woh fothcy
LiDs VªkQs kVs kes hVj ds ek/;e ls xtq kjk tkrk gSA uewus dks miLdj dh fu/kkZfjr voLFkkvksa ls xqtkjk tkrk
gS rFkk peM+ s ds ueuw s eas MkbZ dh ek=k dh iqf’V djus ds fy, MkbZ LisDVªe dh ekStnw xh dk s oos ySaFk ¼400
ls 800 ,u,e½ ds fothcy Hkkx esa ukVs fd;k tkrk gSA
peM+s dk s eqyk;e cukus ds fy, peM+ s dk s ikuh eas beYlhQkbZ djds rsy vkSj@vFkok
olk ls peM+s dk ifj”kk/s kuA
rS;kj ysi eas fixeasV vFkok MkbZ vFkok nkus kas ds ;kxs tSls dyjSaV~l ds lkFk feykdj fQYe
cukus dh lkexzh@ckbMa j “kkfey gSA fQYe cukus dh lkexzh@ckbMa j vdsyh lkexzh vFkok lkexzh tSls
izksVhUl ;k flaFkfsVd ,fØfyd ;k ikyh;jw sFkus ] foukby ySdlZ ;k ySdj bZeYlUl tSls ds lkFk feykdj
cukbZ tk,xhA ;fn vko”;d gqvk rk s rS;kj ysi dh tkpa ds fy, U;wure 100 xq.kk vko/kZu ij lrg dh
ekbØkLs ikfsid tkap dh tk,xhA
100x ds dqy vko/kZu ij oLrqvkas dk s ns[kus ds ;kXs ; cukus ds mí”s ; ls ckbukds qyj LVhfjvkLs dkfsid
ekbØkLs dkis ¼nk s tkMs +s½ dh vko”;drk gksxhA LVhfjvkls dkfsid ekbØkLs dkis oLrq ds rhu vk;ke fn[kkrk
gSA
Tkkap fd, tkus okyk peM+k ueuw k ekbØkLs dkis dh lrg ij bl rjg j[kk tkrk gS fd xzsu oLrqvkas dh
vkjs gks vkSj rc lrg dks Qkds l fd;k tkrk gSA izR;sd ikap LFkkuks a eas nk s ;k rhu LFkkuks a uker% cV]
cys h ¼cSd ckus ykbZu ds izR;sd lkbM ,d½ vkSj usd vFkok “kksYMj dh tkpa dh tkrh gSA[भाग I—खण् ड 1] भारत का रािपत्र : असाधारण 5
[kqyh vk¡[kkas ls ns[kus ij xzsu lrg lery ekywe iM+rh g S ijUrq tc ekbØksLdkis ds tfj, Qksdl fd;k
tkrk gS rk s lrg ij vla[; ncko ns[ks tk ldrs gSaA ;s ncko VwVh gqbZ ykbuks a vkSj cky tSls fNnzksa ds
dkj.k iSnk gksrs gSaA ;fn xszu dh lrg ij rS;kj ysi dk fNM+dko fd;k tk, rks bls iwjh lrg ij ns[kk
tk ldrk gS] ftles a nc s gq, {k=s Hkh “kkfey gSa rFkk nc s gq, {k=s vkSj vU; {k=s nkus kas mlh rjg dh ped
iSnk djsxa s ftUgas ekbØkLs dkis ls Li’V :Ik ls ns[kk tk ldrk gSA
,ejh Oghy vFkok cfQax e”khu dh fØ;k ls peM+s ij jkvs k a ds fuekZ.k ds fy, ,d LoPN ekal
lrg ds fuekZ.k dh izfØ;kA
ekal ;k xzsu lrg ls ijrkas dk s gVkus ls ,d leku eksVkbZ ds peM+s ds inkFkZ dks de djus dh
,d ;kaf=d izfØ;kA
peM+ s dh xzsu lkbM dh cfQax dh izfØ;k cfQax e”khu }kjk dh tkrh gS ftleas xzsu gVkus dk
iz.kke fn[ksA
peM+ s dk s ue Z vkSj yphyk cukus ds fy,] xhys vFkok lsEM peM+s dh xzsu lkbM ij rsy
yxkus dh izfØ;k( okuLifrd VSUM peM+ s eas ekeys eas vkDlhMs”ku }kjk VSu dk jax dkyk iM+us ls cpkus
ds fy,A
xzsu lrg ij tkbyhu yxkus ds ckn ekbØksLdkis ¼100x½ }kjk oSDl iVhZdqysV eSVj fn[kuk
pkfg,A
peM+s dh lrg ij tkbyhu dh ,d NksVh cnwa Mkyh tkrh gSA lgr dks ,d Xykl jkWM ls /khjs&/khjs
LØSi fd;k tkrk gSA peM+s dk s 2&3 feuV NksM+ fn;k tkrk gSA lq[kk, x, peM+s dh lrg ij oSDl
fØLVy dh ekStwnxh dks ekbØkLs dkis }kjk ns[kk tkrk gSA
peM+s dh xszu lrg ij jxM+us ls “kMs xgjkus ds lkFk ,d [kkl ped
¼cfuZf”kxa izHkko½ vkuh pkfg,A U;wure lhvkbZbZ ∆,y eYw ;&3-0 vku 10 lkrjk vFkok fdlh vU;
QkLVusl VsLVj ij MªkbZ jfcaxA
peM+k ,d fof”k’V iqy vi izHkko dks fj¶ysDVsla LiVs ªkQs kVs kes hVj }kjk ;Fkk ekfir +3
ukik x;k ds U;wure lhvkbZbZ ∆,y vk/kkj ls dUVªkLV ykbV dyj fn[kk,A
,d izfØ;k ftld s }kjk my>s Åu dk s fjtht fd;k tk ldAs
,fØfyd@ihohlh@ih;w QkW;y vFkok fQYe
jksfyax e”khu }kjk gos h jkys j l s lkys ds peM+ s dh rjg gos h peM+ksa dk s jksy djus dh izfØ;kA
rhu vk;keh izHkko peMs + dk s ,ls s :Ik es a iznf”kZr djrk g S tk s fufnZ’V volajpuk es a okLrfod :Ik ls
ekStnw irz hr gksrk gSA okLro es a ;g ekuo vka[k ls likV fn[kus okyh oLrqvkas dk s ,ls s :Ik es a iznf”krZ
djrk gS ftlls fofHkUu vk;ke ns[k s tk ldrs gSA
peM+s ij fNnzkas dk lewg] dV~l vFkok xgu izHkkoks a vFkok Nki vFkok
fMtkbu fd, tk ldrs gSaA
,Eckflax peM+s dks jpukRed vkjS ltkoVh :Ik inz ku djrk g S ftles a gkbZM@fLdu
ij iSVuZ vFkok fMtkbu Mkyus ds fy, m’ek vkSj mPp ncko dk iz;kxs djds LVsfEixa dh tkrh gSA
iSVuZ vFkok fMtkbu fdLeks a eas fil s gq, vukt] gs;j lsy] ?kfM+;ky] exjePN] “krqeqZxZ] Qwy] T;kfefr
bR;kfn “kkfey gSaA
VSfuax izkS|ksfxdh eas fiNys 7&8 o’kkZs a eas gksus okys vusd ifjorZuks a vkSj
vktdy fofufeZr fd, tk jg s rS;kj peM+ s dh ubZ fdLekas dks /;ku esa j[krs gq, fons”k O;kikj uhfr
2015&20 ds Øe la- 176] v/;k; 41] vuqlwph&2&fu;kZr uhfr eas mfYyf[kr izfof’V ÞlHkh idz kj dk
rS;kj peM+kß es a dfri; ifjo/kuZ @la”kk/s ku fd, x, gSaA
vfer ;kno] egkfuns'kd] fons'k O;kikj ,oa insu vij lfpo6 THE GAZETTE OF INDIA : EXTRAORDINARY [PART I—SEC. 1]
MINISTRY OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY
(Department of Commerce)
(DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF FOREIGN TRADE)
PUBLIC NOTICE
New Delhi, the 4th September 2020
No. 15/2015-2020
Subject: Export of Finished Leather - Revised Leather Norms.
F. No. 01/91/180/1240/AM20/MainFile/EC/E-20615.—In exercise of the powers conferred by
Section 5 of the Foreign Trade (Development & Regulation) Act, 1992 (No 22 of 1992) read with Para 2.04
of the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20, the Director General of Foreign Trade hereby specifies, for the
purpose of the entry “Finished Leather all kinds” appearing at Serial No: 176, Chapter 41, Schedule 2 –
Export Policy, of the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20, that the items mentioned in column 2 of the table
hereunder shall constitute “Finished Leather” and the same may be exported without a license but subject to
the terms and conditions specified against each item in column 3 of the table hereunder.”
S. No. Description of item Manufacturing Norms
Conditions.
1. 2. 3.
I Leathers with finishing coat a. Tanning
(All b. Dyeing(optional)
substrates – Goat and Sheep c. Fatliquoring
skins and d. Finishing coat
Bovine hides/sides calf skins
including splits)
II Suede Leathers (All a. Tanning
substrates including b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in
splits) case of doubt, the presence of dye to be
ascertained by chromatographic technique or
spectrophotometric technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Buffing to produce suede nap
e. Shaving/snuffing of the grain along the backbone 2
inches on either side in the case of goat and sheep
skins and in the case of bovine hides/sides and calf
skins all over the grain side
III Nubuck Leathers (All a. Tanning
substrates including butts b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in case
and bends) of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by
chromatographic technique or spectrophotometric
technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Buffing on the grain to produce nap with writing
effect
(or) Buffing on the grain and presence of oil in the
case of oil nubuck leather(or) Buffing on the grain
and presence of wax in the case of waxy nubuck
leather.[भाग I—खण् ड 1] भारत का रािपत्र : असाधारण 7
IV Bovine hides/sides based Thickness upto 1.0 mm for Bovine lining leathers and
Lining Leathers, Goat and 0.8 mm for Goat & Sheep lining leathers.
Sheep based Lining Leathers a. Tanning
b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in
the case of doubt, the presence of dye to be
ascertained by chromatographic technique or
spectrophotometric technique)
c. Fatliquoring
V Gloving leathers (All Thickness should be less than or equal to 1.0 mm. Run
substrates): should be minimum of 15% in the case of wax coat.
In case wax coat is absent, run shall not be lesser than
25%.
a. Tanning
b. Dyeing (optional)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Wax coat (optional)
VI Burnishable Leathers (All a. Tanning
substrates including butts and b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in case
bends) of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by
chromatographic technique or spectrophotometric
technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Wax coat
e. Burnishable effect on rubbing (Minimum CIE∆L
value of –3.0 on 10 dry rubbing on SATRA
Fastness tester or any other fastness tester as
measured on a Reflectance spectrophotometer)
VII Pull Up Leather – Wax/Oil (All a. Tanning
substrates including butts and b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades(in case
bends) of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by
chromatographic technique or spectrophotometric
technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Wax coat (or) Oilcoat
e. Pull up effect (Minimum CIE ∆L value of +3.0 as
measured on a reflectance spectrophotometer)
VIII Heavy Leathers including sole Heavy substance with thickness of 3.0 mm or more and
leather, harness and belting with minimum of apparent density 0.9 gm/cc
leathers (Bovine a. Tanning
hides/sides including butts b. Oiling/stuffing
and bends) c. Rolling/Plating
IX Hair/wool on leathers (All a. Tanning
substrates including rabbit b. Dyeing(optional)
skins) c. Fatliquoring
d. Wool/hair combing
X Laminated Leathers (All a. Tanning
substrates including splits) b. Dyeing(optional)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Application of foil/film/lamination on grain or
flesh side of the leathers.8 THE GAZETTE OF INDIA : EXTRAORDINARY [PART I—SEC. 1]
XI Chamois Leathers (All a. Aldehyde and oil combination tanning
substrates) b. Buffing to produce suede nap
c. Complete shaving/snuffing of the grain
XII Shrunken Grain/Washed a. Tanning
leathers (All substrates). b. Dyeing (in the case of doubt, the presence of dye
to be ascertained by chromatographic or
spectrophotometric technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Wax coat (or) oil coat.
Should have pronounced change in the grain
pattern/texture of grain
XIII Wax/Oil coated a. Tanning
leathers b. Dyeing (in the case of doubt, the presence of dye
to be ascertained by chromatographic or
spectrophotometric technique)
c. Fatliquoring
d. Wax coat (or) Oil Coat
XIV 3D Effect, Embossed leathers, a. Tanning
Scaling, Perforated leathers b. Dyeing (optional)
etc; c. Fatliquoring
d. Effect should be uniform, pronounced and shall
be seen throughout the leather grain or flesh
surface.
NOTE: Any new type of finished leather not covered under the above categories shall be permitted for
export, subject to testing and certification by Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI).
DEFINITIONS OF MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS
Tanning –Tanning with one or more than one kind of tanning agent, such as mineral tanning and vegetable
tanning and/or syntan tanning and/or resin tanning and/or aldehyde tanning, oil tanning in any sequence
and or any new type of tanning.
Dyeing – Treating the leather with a solution of dye/s to impart a colour . In case of doubt the presence of
dye should be ascertained by extracting dye from leather using suitable solvent mixture and by running thin
layer chromatography (TLC)
NOTE: 1:- Testing for the presence of dye:
By Chromatographic technique:
Organic layer separated from Butanol, acetic acid and water mixture taken in the ratio 4:1:5, using a
separating funnel is taken as the eluting solvent for TLC analysis. Dye is extracted from the leather using
dichloromethane and methanol (1: 1) mixture. The cut pieces of leathers are heated in a water bath with the
solvent mixture for few minutes. The extracted dye is kept as a spot on the TLC paper and the strip is kept
in the eluting solvent such that the dye spot lies above the solvent level. The presence of the dye is
confirmed by its movement to a considerable distance and from the formation of a dye curve or peak on the
TLC paper.
By Spectrophotometric technique :
Known sample of leather is taken for dye extraction by suitable solvent mixture. Extracted solution is
filtered and then 2 ml of the same is taken in cuvette and run through the UV Visible Spectrophotometer.
Sample is run for set conditions of equipment and presence of dye spectrum is noted in visible region of
wavelength (400 to 800 nm) to confirm the presence of dye in leather sample.
Fatliquoring – Treating the leather with oil and/or fat, emulsified in water for rendering the leather soft[भाग I—खण् ड 1] भारत का रािपत्र : असाधारण 9
Finishing Coat – Finishing coat shall contain a film forming material/ binder in combination with
colorants such as pigments or dyes or a combination of both. The film forming material/binder shall
comprise materials singly or in combination such as proteins or synthetic acrylic or polyurethane, vinyls
lacquers or lacquer emulsions. If necessary, microscopic examination of the surface at minimum 100
times magnification shall be carried out to detect the finishing coat.
NOTE 2: - Microscopic examination for finish coat:
Binocular stereoscopic microscope with (two paired) objectives capable of viewing the objects at a total
magnification of 100X will be required. Stereoscopic microscope gives a three dimensional view of the
object.
Leather sample to be examined is placed on the stage of the microscope with the grain facing the objectives
and then the surface is focused. Two or three places in each of the five locations namely butt, belly (one
each side of the back bone line) and neck or shoulder examined.
To the naked eye, the grain surface may appear to be plain, but when focused under microscope,
innumerable depressions can be seen on the surface. These depressions are due to cleavages lines and hair
pores. If finish coat is sprayed on the grain surface, it will be present throughout, including depressed areas
and both the depressed and other areas will produce the same type of reflection which is clearly visible
under the microscope.
Buffing – An operation to produce a clean flesh surface to produce nap on leather by the action of emery
wheel or a buffing machine.
Shaving – A mechanical operation of reducing the substance of leather to uniform thickness by scrapping
off layers from flesh or grain side
Snuffing – The process of buffing the grain side of leather usually done by buffing machine, with visible
evidence of removal of grain
Oiling – The operation of rubbing oil on the grain side of wet or sammed leather with the object of making
the leather soft andpliable; in the case of vegetable tanned leather also to protect the color of tannage from
darkening by oxidation.
Wax coat – Wax particulate matter should be seen under Microscope (100x) after the application of xylene
on the grain surface.
NOTE 3:-Microscopic examination of wax coat:
A small drop of xylene is placed on the surface of the leather. The surface is scrapped gently using a glass
rod. Leather is left for 2-3 minutes. The dried leather surface is observed under microscope for the presence
of wax crystals on the surface.
Burnishable Effect – Rubbing on grain surface of leather should show a distinct gloss with a darkening of
the shade giving rise to a burnishing effect. Minimum CIE ∆L value of – 3.0 on 10 dry rubbing on SATRA
or any other fastness tester.
Pull up Effect – Leather shall produce a distinct pull-up effect showing a contrast light color from the base
minimum CIE ∆L value of +3 as measured by the reflectance spectrophotometer.
Wool Combing- The operation through which wool entanglements are released.
Application of foil/film – Acrylic/PVC/PU foil or film
Rolling – The operation of rolling the heavy leathers like sole leather using a heavy roller with rolling
machine.10 THE GAZETTE OF INDIA : EXTRAORDINARY [PART I—SEC. 1]
3D EFFECT
Three-dimensional effect displays leather in a form that appears to be physically present with a designated
structure. Essentially, it allows items that appeared flat to the human eye to be display in a form that allows
for various dimensions to be represented.
SCALING / PERFORATED LEATHERS
Group of small holes, cuts, or deep effects or impressions or designs imparted on the leather.
EMBOSSED LEATHER
Embossing gives a creative & decorative look to leather by stamping using heat and high pressure to create
a pattern or design in the hide/skin. The pattern or design varieties are ranging from milled grain, hair cell,
alligator, crocodile, ostrich, flowers, geometric, etc.
Effect of Public Notice: Certain additions/amendments have been made in the entry “Finished Leather all
kinds” appearing at Serial No: 176, Chapter 41, Schedule 2 – Export Policy, of the Foreign Trade Policy
2015-20 in the light of several changes that have taken place in the past 7-8 years in the tanning technology
and new types of finished leather being produced now.
AMIT YADAV, Director General of Foreign Trade Ex-officio Addl. Secy.
Uploaded by Dte. of Printing at Government of India Press, Ring Road, Mayapuri, New Delhi-110064
and Published by the Controller of Publications, Delhi-110054.